So - I keep the ISO rating as low as possible (64 on the DiMAGE A2, 100 on the D200), and the f-stop around f/11. If it's very dark I leave the white balance set to auto. If it's somewhat hazy, I set it to daylight (if I remember) or leave it on auto (which is most of the time). This setting can be important if there are street lights or parking lot lights that can get reflected in the smoke.

I have also taken to setting my contrast level on the camera as low as possible and to lightly boost the color. I usually do this out of habit, as there is usually lots of data in dark shots that are lost because the contrast is set too high. I can make better use of Photoshop if I keep the contrast low. In my last set of pyro shots, my camera had these settings and the night sky was not very black (as I expected). However, once I made some curves adjustments, I was very pleased with the images.

I also don't have a set shutter speed. I open the shutter as the shell approaches apogee, and release it when I'm satisfied the shell is spent, OR that I'm satisfied with multiple shells. I try to keep this as short as possible, so the dark level corrections are kept to a minimum in the camera. This is possible because my camera has a "bulb" setting that keeps the shutter open for as long as the shutter release is held down. If I were to set to a certain time, I'd probably advise 4 seconds,and depress the shutter as close as possible to the burst.

As usual, there are exceptions to many rules, and this is one of them. If you have an object that will be in the picture along with the fireworks, you need to 1) adjust your f/stop for the fireworks, then 2) adjust the length of the exposure for that object. I will arrive early to stake out my spot, then take some test pictures. While the LCD on the back of most cameras are poor for figuring out exact exposures, they can get you close. After you've set your exposure time, then it's up to you to figure out *when* to depress the shutter.

This is method is how I got this picture at Angel's Stadium with the stadium fully visible and the fireworks properly exposed.

You can take it to the next level, where in this image of Disneyland's fireworks show, I set the f/stop for the fireworks, the timed exposure for the castle and the flash for the statue. 3 different variables at work!

Turn off all vibration reduction devices. This will cause unwanted movement in your exposures.

Turn the flash off. Nothing disturbs the crowd around you as much as a flash always going off. That being said, there are times that a flash can really help with illumination of a person or people in a shot. I use a "rear-sync" flash that will pop the flash at the end of the exposure. (See this self-portrait for this effect.)

That's really all there is to it. At the very start of the show, you can usually get a feel for the level of the shell burst. I shoot as many shots as possible, but I also realize that I can't catch the entire show. I angle the camera and leave it there, then wait for the right shell to show up. It's all up to you - but I'd advise you to keep tripods adjustments to a minimum. And shoot, shoot, shoot! Even if you don't think it's worth it, shoot!

And, while the camera is taking the shots or is making the dark compensations, ENJOY THE FIREWORKS! That's what they're there for, right?

And one more thing - if you've brought along kids, family members or friends, don't forget to take pictures of them! Pictures are treasured moments of frozen time. Don't forget the kids.

Enough talk - how about some PhotoShop techniques?

All information presented on these pages can be used for your personal use. If you want to publish or reproduce any or all if the info here, you must have permission from Tom Calderwood. If you find any information that is incorrect, please notify me and I will take care of it as soon as possible.